Few things are as frustrating as a washing machine that sounds like it’s trying to launch itself into orbit during the spin cycle. That violent shaking, banging, and walking across the laundry room floor isn’t just annoying – it can damage the in the long run damage your floors, the machine itself, and even loosen plumbing connections. If you live in the Lower Mainland and the problem feels beyond a simple DIY fix, professional washing machine repair in Burnaby can save you time and prevent costly mistakes. But before you call in the pros, many shaking issues can be solved in under an hour with basic tools and a little patience.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to diagnosing and fixing the most common causes of excessive washer vibration – from the dead-simple checks to the less-obvious culprits.
1. Start with the Obvious: Are the Shipping Bolts Still In?
If your washer is brand new (or newly moved), this is almost always the problem.
Front-load washers come with 3–4 long shipping bolts (sometimes called transit bolts) at the back that lock the drum in place during transport. Top-load washers sometimes have shipping rods or foam blocks. Forgetting to remove them turns every spin cycle into a seismic event.
Fix:
- Unplug the machine and pull it away from the wall.
- Look for large bolts (usually with plastic spacers) on the back panel.
- Remove them with a wrench (typically 10–13 mm). Keep them in a labeled bag in case you ever move again.
- Plug the washer back in and run a test spin. Problem solved 80 % of the time for new installations.
2. Is the Washer Actually Level?
An unlevel washer is the second most common cause of shaking – and the easiest to fix.
Even a difference of ½ inch front-to-back or side-to-side is enough to send the drum into chaos at 1200+ RPM.
How to check and fix:
- Place a bubble level (or use a leveling app on your phone) on top of the washer, front-to-back and side-to-side.
- Most washers have adjustable front legs that you can twist by hand or with pliers. Rear legs are often self-leveling on newer models, but some require you to tilt the machine forward to let them drop and lock.
- Adjust until the bubble is perfectly centered in both directions.
- Tighten the lock nuts on the front legs so they don’t spin loose again.
- Pro tip: Put a slight forward tilt (about 1 inch higher in the back). This helps the machine “lean into” the spin instead of rocking backward.
3. Check the Floor Itself
Sometimes the washer is level, but the floor isn’t strong enough.
Older homes, upstairs laundry rooms, or plywood subfloors can flex under the dynamic load of a spinning drum, amplifying vibration.
Solutions:
- Place a ¾-inch plywood board (at least 4 × 4 ft) under the washer to distribute weight.
- Add anti-vibration pads (the thick rubber ones, not the cheap thin ones). Brands like DiversiTech or SteadyPad work wonders.
- If it’s an upstairs installation, consider adding blocking between floor joists (a job for a carpenter).
4. Inspect the Load – Yes, Really
An unbalanced load is the #1 reason washers shake on otherwise healthy machines.
Common mistakes:
- Washing one heavy item (bath mat, jeans with metal buttons, a single towel).
- Mixing heavy items (towels) with light items (underwear) in the same load.
- Overloading or underloading.
Best practices:
- Always mix heavy and light items.
- Never wash a single bath mat or one pair of jeans alone.
- For front-loaders: Fill to about ¾ full, loosely – don’t pack tight.
- For top-loaders with agitators: Distribute clothes evenly around the agitator post.
- Use the “Bulky” or “Bedding” cycle for heavy items – it spins slower at first to balance the load.
5. Worn or Broken Shock Absorbers / Suspension Rods
This is where things get a bit more technical, but still DIY-able for most people.
Front-load washers use 2–4 shock absorbers (like tiny car shocks) or friction dampers. Top-load washers built after ~2010 usually have 4 suspension rods with springs and dampers.
When these wear out, the drum can swing wildly.
Symptoms of bad shocks/rods:
- Excessive shaking even on balanced, medium-sized loads.
- Loud banging during spin, especially when transitioning from wash to spin.
- Visible oil leaks under the machine (front-loaders).
- Drum drops noticeably when you push down on it inside.
How to test:
- Unplug and open the top (top-loaders) or remove the lower front panel (front-loaders).
- Push down hard on the drum/tub – it should bounce once or twice and stop. If it keeps bouncing like a pogo stick, the shocks or rods are shot.
Replacement cost:
- Parts are usually $40–$120 for a full set.
- Takes 30–90 minutes with basic tools (socket set, pliers, Torx bits).
6. Failed Snubber Ring or Pads (Older Top-Loaders)
Pre-2010 Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, and similar top-loaders use a white plastic snubber ring or brake pads between the base and tub support. When they wear out, the tub slams against the frame.
Signs:
- Grayish-white dust under the machine.
- Shaking plus a loud thunk-thunk-thunk.
Fix:
- Replacing the snubber is messy (grease everywhere) and requires tipping the machine on its back, but parts are cheap (~$15–$30).
7. Broken or Loose Counterbalance Springs
Most front-loaders have two large concrete counterweights (top and front) held by massive springs or bolts. If a spring breaks or a bolt works loose, the drum becomes wildly unbalanced.
Check for:
- A visible gap where the top weight meets the tub.
- Clanking metal-on-metal sounds.
Fixing this usually requires two people and is a good time to call a technician unless you’re very confident.
8. Worn Drive Belt or Motor Coupling (Older Models)
On direct-drive or belt-drive machines, a loose or slipping belt can cause irregular spinning and vibration. Older Whirlpool/Kenmore direct-drive models use a rubber motor coupling that breaks after 10–15 years.
Signs:
- Burning rubber smell.
- Spin cycle starts slow or erratic.
9. When to Stop DIY and Call a Professional
Call a technician if:
- The machine is under warranty (DIY repairs can void it).
- You see oil leaking from the gearcase/transmission (expensive seal failure).
- The drum bearings are screaming (very loud grinding – replacement often costs more than a new washer).
- You’ve tried everything above and it still shakes violently.
Quick Reference Checklist
- Remove shipping bolts (new machines)
- Level the washer (front-to-back & side-to-side)
- Use anti-vibration pads or plywood base
- Load clothes properly – balanced and not overpacked
- Inspect and replace worn shocks/suspension rods
- Check snubber ring (older top-loaders)
- Look for loose counterweights or broken springs
Final Thoughts
Nine times out of ten, excessive washer shaking is caused by something simple: shipping bolts, unlevel legs, or an unbalanced load. Fix those first and you’ll save yourself hours of frustration (and possibly a service call). When the problem is internal – failed shocks, bearings, or transmission seals – the repair can still be worthwhile, especially on a machine less than 8–10 years old.
If you’re in Burnaby, Coquitlam, New Westminster, or anywhere in the Lower Mainland and you’ve gone through the checklist without success, the team at Tech-Angels offers same-day and next-day service on all major brands (Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, Bosch, Electrolux, and more). They’ll diagnose the exact cause – whether it’s a $40 shock absorber kit or something more serious – and give you an upfront price before any work begins.
A smoothly spinning washer isn’t a luxury; it’s what your laundry room deserves. Start with the easy fixes, work your way down the list, and you’ll have that earthquake under control in no time.
